Ask Bob

Here's one for you. I have a 53 F-100 with a flatty still beatin' under it's hood. This is my daily driver irregardless of conditions. She sounds / appears to have had a keeper come off of a valve or something of that nature {when I got her, she had a bent valve and a messed up guide in the number 3 cylinder, same one as now, and had a load of badly bent or completely off valve guide retainers}. Anyhow, I am getting ready to tear her back down and have stumbled across a company called Best Gasket, to which I am told you sell. I want to know how the quality is, and if I was to purchase these gaskets from Egge , which do I need. The one with the copper head gasket, or the more conventional graphite one? As I said this ol' girl is used daily and is still a TRUCK! and used as such so I'm not wanting to skimp on quality here but have for years using fp gaskets, and the 8ba doesn't seem to care much for their head gaskets.

Best Gasket, as far as I am concerned, makes much better gaskets than Fel-Pro or any other gasket manufacturer. Especially when you talk about timing cover seal and rear main seal material. You can go to their web site from the links page on our site and read a lot about their gaskets. If you have had problems with head gaskets sealing previously, I would suggest using the graphite head gaskets. They have a tendency to seal a little better. The gasket set for your engine would be part number RS521G.

I have a 1947 Cadillac flat head that will need a valve job soon. Are your new replacement valves for this engine more compatible with unleaded gasoline than the original valves? Should I grind the old ones or get new valves when I do a valve job. What about valve seats?

If you are going to use unleaded fuel, you should put in hard seats for the exhaust and use stainless valves. We can supply the valve seats. Our valves, S946, are stainless. We also have stainless intake valves V947, if you want to change them. You can just grind the intake valves if they are not too thin, they do not have to be changed for the unleaded fuel.

I purchased 6, .030 over pistons (E-286) for my 50 Studebaker -170"-flat six. Can you help with the orientation of the "T"slot and ring gap orientation corresponding to the "T"?
The T slot of the pistons would go towards the normal driver's side of the car (towards the left sitting in car). The ring gap orientation does not coincide with the T slot. You just need to stagger the rings so that none of them line up with each other.

Bob, Your crankshaft part #923911 specs state that the "rod pin" size is 2.138. I assume you mean the crankshaft "rod journal". I have seen this specification stated as 2.138 and 2.139. Which to my knowledge is the "stock size" rod journal. That being said; can this crank be used in a 46-59 A B block with stock heads, and can the stock pistons and connecting rods be used with this crank as well? Seeing as how it is a 4 " stroke and not the stock 3 3/4"
The standard crank size is officially listed as 2.138/2.139. This 4" stroke crankshaft cannot be used with the 3 3/4 stroke pistons. The connecting rods block and heads are all the same. You would have to change the pistons to use the 4" stroke crankshaft. We have a new 3 3/4 stroke crank for this application. This would also have the 2.138/2.139 standard rod crankshaft diameter.

We do not carry rebuilt engines. We can supply all of the parts to rebuild your engine. We do not know of a company that would stock an engine for your car. You will have to find a reliable shop to rebuild it for you. We do have strategic relationships with engine builders, if you can supply your address we may be able to find a company close to you that can do it.

I have a 1946 Ford Super Deluxe Tudor Coupe with a 1949 Mercury Offenhauser Flathead - how important is using (for example SR-1) or any zinc additive Motor oil?
Let me give you a rundown on why you need zinc. First, just about every single engine oil you purchase at the auto parts store is SM Rated. This means that the maximum amount of zinc that can be put in the oil is 800ppm. The truth is they probably have 500 or 600ppm on average. Zinc is the anti friction/anti weld agent in oil to protect your vehicle. When you have mechanical lifters/camshaft like in your Mercury flathead, it will prematurely wear the camshaft lobes and lifters and cause a serious problem. This is a genuine problem for people owning antique and classic vehicles and we have seen and heard about several cases of this happening to our valued customers. You have 2 options that you can do to help solve this issue. The first option would be to purchase a bottle of Torco Zinc Engine protector and put it in the engine oil you are currently using. It's a 12 oz bottle and it treats 6 quarts of oil. Your second option would be to purchase Torco TR-1 oil in any weight you desire and run that in your vehicle. Both options will get you in the 1250-1350ppm zinc range which is a much safer area to be in for your engines.

Hello Bob. I am from Sweden. I would like to know the technical specification on the two camshafts: VM011 NEW S, and 62-0909, to Oldsmobile 394, -61.
The specifications for the 62-0909 camshaft are as follows. Advertised duration 266/266, at .050 209/209, cam lift 275/275, valve lift 495/405, and the centerline 107/113. We do not have the specifications on the VMO11NEWS cam our vendor does not make this information available. It has the stock starfire cam specifications.

I have the intention to rebuild a 1932 Pontiac straight six engine. Do you have a complete engine kit for sale?
We can supply the parts you need for the 1932 Pontiac six engine.

The rear main rope seal is leaking. Replaced twice still no good. I heard Egge has new teflon rope seal. Do you have one for a Pontiac 326 1967.rear main seal.
We can supply the graphite rope (Teflon) rear main seal for the 1967 Pontiac 326. Our part number is 5144.

Hot rodding a 1954 Cadillac 331 for a '34 3 Window Coupe.
I'm planning a rebuild for a 1954 Cadillac 331 engine to go in my 34 3W Coupe. I want to add some hot rod performance to the caddy, performance as in better horsepower and a dependable running street engine. As you may know the stock 54 Caddy 331 has about 160 hp. I will be adding some 1962 390 heads.

1. In your opinion what would be a good loopy cam to use? I have read that Caddy's don't like much over 280 adv dur and .475"lift.
2. With any type of performance cam, do you suggest adjustable rockers?
3. If I bore the block out to .30 over 1/4" to 390 size and try to increase compression to 10.00:1 or 10.25:1 do you make rods for that piston that will mate to the 331 crank or will the stock rods work?
4. Do you sell a kit that would avoid buying many these separate parts? Cam, lifters, timing chain/gear, pistons....

I have a good engine mechanic that will be helping me assemble the engine. He suggested I talk to Egge tec support for advice. Any advice or help with available parts for my rebuild will certainly be appreciated.

The new stock camshaft we have for the 331 engine has the following specifications. Advertised duration 286, cam lift 274, valve lift 452, and @ .050 is 203. This would probably be a good cam for your application. You can use the stock rocker arms for this camshaft application. You may have a little trouble finding adjustable rockers for this engine. As far as boring the block π .030 to the 390 bore size, you will need to have the block sonic tested to make sure there is enough meat in the block to accommodate the 4" .030 bore. The 365 rods have a center-to-center distance of 6.625 and the 390 rods have a center to center of 6.500. You can use the 331 rods but you will have to have special pistons made. Your mechanic will have to figure out, with the 390 heads, what compression height pistons you will have to use to accomplish the desired 10 or 10.25 to 1 compression ratio. We can supply the cam, lifters, timing, gaskets and just about all other internal parts. The pistons would have to be a forged set.

What is stock rod journal diameter of Packard 356 c.i. straight eight engine?

The standard crankshaft diameter on the 356 Packard straight eight would be 2.2497/2.2507. If you need it the housing bore for the connecting rods should be 2.3897/2.3902.

Where can I get some information on rebuilding a Chevy straight 6?
I have a 1966 Chevy half ton, with a straight 6. It is original as far as I know. I bought it when I was 16, 29 years ago. I haven't done a thing to it, but put a new clutch in it about 2 years ago. I do not drive it much, but I can get in it today start it and drive it. I would like to rebuild the motor to start, then go from there. Where can I get some good info. On the motor and how to do this. I am in WA State.
A good source of information for your rebuild would be Webrodder, all tech all of the time. You can go to their web site <www.webrodder.com> and check out their forums and tech articles. If you have any questions you can register on the forum and get most all answers pertaining to rebuilding a motor.

Bob, I have a Plymouth engine that has been rebuilt but needs to be done again. I am not certain what the engine is, the pistons in it have a casting #inside 660p wondering what it is. They have an eyebrow on each side of the top.

The 660P number looks like a Badger number. This would be a 1957-66 Plymouth/Dodge 318 engine. It should be a 3.910 standard bore size. Our part number for this piston would be L2050. We have standard, .020, .030, .040 and .060 sets in stock. We can also supply a complete engine kit for this engine.

I have sent the main bearings to my 30 Stutz to you today to be re-babbitted, along with a valve to be duplicated. In regard to the Packard dimensions I requested, can you supply a set of 8 standard rod bearings and wrist-pin bushings for the Packard 356 engine?
We can supply the pin bushings. We do not have the rod bearings in standard size. We can supply .010, .020 or .030.

Can you suggest the parts (valves, springs, cam, etc.) and accessories and who I should get to complete my 350 engine?
Bob, I have owned a 1969 Z28 since 1994. While I have done a fair amount of mechanical work to it, cosmetically it's in about the same shape as I bought it. Unfortunately, the original 302 is gone and in its place is a 350. I have always wanted to return it to a 302.

I purchased a service block a few years ago (casting numbers confirm its was cast in Feb/09 and bore is standard although I believe I will need to take it to 10 or 20 over to clean it up) and a set of new 2.02 bare heads from GM.

I have the right crank, intake manifold, carb, distributor and valve covers (some already installed on the 350).

My quandary is this; I receive all sorts of unsolicited advice from my fellow car enthusiasts as to how to complete this engine but still find myself stuck as to how to proceed. I would like to keep the engine as original as possible but at the same time take advantage of today's technology on the internal components.

Can you suggest the parts (valves, springs, cam, etc.) and accessories and who I should get to complete the engine.
You really need to talk to a professional engine rebuilder. We may be able to find a shop close to you.

Bob, could you forward me any specs you might have for rings application for 4-ring flathead pistons part # L991-8.125? This was a 4 ring flathead piston that says Egge Machine for Flathead Jack on the box. (3-5/16 x 4"). I think Grant and Hastings both may offer a ring for this application?
Appreciate any information you would be willing to share about these pistons or rings. Unfortunately the paperwork is not to be found.

The L991 pistons have 2) 3/32 compression rings and 2) 3/16 oil rings per piston. The Hastings part number is 533.125 and the Grant number is P3108.125.

I picked up a 1960 T-Bird that has been sitting for 30 years. It has the orig. 352 Ford engine with 63,000 miles and it is not turning. I tied to turn it by grabbing the harmonic pulley with a chain wrench, (big mistake, yes I spun the rubber). The body is in pretty good shape but the interior was been occupied with squirrels, mice, snakes and who knows what else. I want to rat rod the car nothing fancy just make a cool driver with the rough complete leather seats. The engine has oil in it, no water or antifreeze and one spark plug (passenger side rear) had some green corrosion and part of the end was gone 1/16" to 1/8" on one side but the rest of the plugs look normal. The cooling system had green antifreeze in it. What is the best way to attack this motor if I want to use it in this car? Or should I look for a different motor/transmission?

A good start would be to take out the spark plugs and put a little Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Let it sit for a day or so and then put in a little more. After a few days you can see if engine will turn over. It sounds like you should probably remove the cylinder heads and take a look to see what the internals look like.

I am restoring a 1963 Cadillac Fleetwood 60 Special. According to that I need some seals for the car body, the engine repair kit, the front axial repair kit, the hinges and bushes for the rear axial, some parts of the bumper, the petrol-tank and maybe some other parts. Would it be possible for you to offer something for that car? And in that case would it be possible to send these things to Estonia? If you are able to offer me something, then please let me know and then we could talk about prices, paying terms and I can make an order. I can also send some pictures of the car when it is helpful.

We can supply a complete engine kit for your 1963 Cadillac. If you will supply your address, we can put you in our computer and email you a list of parts and prices. We would not carry any of the other parts you are looking for.

Homework. In most cases you will have disassembled and inspected your engine prior to ordering parts. At this point you will take measurements to determine what bearing sizes and bore size you need and make sure that your engine is what it is supposed to be. Engine changes have happened since Day One. Installing a later or earlier engine has always been common. By comparing what you have with what you SHOULD have, you'll know in advance if there are any concerns. Then it's time to determine the serial number and verify the identity with some certainty. Over all, the more you know about your engine, the fewer problems you'll have getting the right parts for it.

You need professional help. This can come from the staff here at Egge Machine where, after many years experience, we are familiar with a lot of different vintage engines. Another source is original or reprinted factory technical manuals or repair manuals such as Motor's or Chilton's. Research is always helpful and informative. Another source would be someone who specializes in the engine or vehicle you are working on. It's surprising how many there are and how willing they are to share information with serious restorers. Finally, there is a lot of free information on the internet. It may take a little time, but it often pays off in locating information and informed people that can help you identify your engine.

This varies some, but as a general rule you'll find them on a machined surface and in a place where they are reasonably accessible and on the block itself. Places to look include on the top of the head gasket surface, on the top of the intake gasket surface, on the bottom rail (pan gasket surface), next to the distributor, or on a special machined block. They will always be stamped in - not cast in (those are casting numbers).

Engine serial numbers will certainly do this as long as you have a way to compare them. In most cases the original manufacturer used a code in the serial number to indicate what it was. Another way is to use casting numbers. If an engine block was cast for only one size or series this can be a help. If you have detailed info, sometimes an engine can be identified by unique visual points. Finally, you can check the bore and stroke and determine the cubic inch size. When trying for a pure restoration, some or all of this things may be important. For example, an engine with the same exact cubic inch size may be used for several years and casting numbers will change to reflect when it was cast. Or, as in the early small block Chevrolets, there may be different bearing sizes, indicating a different machining process. In some cases these differences can be dramatic.

In many cases the engine serial number was the vehicle serial number. If the engine block was changed for any reason, now you have a mismatch. Convention is that if this has happened the state will accept the original serial number even when it doesn't match for this very reason. This mismatch is also one big reason why later vehicles went to body serial numbers.

We have a rubber rear main seal in stock for this engine. Our part number is 3711X.

I have bought some standard pistons for an Amazon B16B engine in Sweden. They arrived and they were manufactured by Egge (E862). Well, I have also ordered a 0.020 pistons set to the same kind of engine and it seems that you are their supplier too. I have a few questions because the guy from the engine shop here in Brazil told me that I can have some problems and should find another set:
1- In the original Mahle Volvo pistons (I have one used sample that has a number inside: 79V2 W091) the pin has an offset in relation to the center of the piston (there is a arrow indicating the direction of assembly and in the service manual there is a note about this arrow). In the Egge units that I received the gudgeon pin is in the center. The guys in engine shop me told me that they should have the offset.
2- In the B16B engine, and it seems that this is normal to other cars also, the upper compression ring must be chromed. They told me that the units that I have received are not chromed.

We have been making these pistons without the offset for years. You will not have a problem with these pistons because of the offset. With regards to the chrome rings, we do not supply the rings to either of these vendors. You will have to get with them on the rings they supplied. You can either use chrome or cast. The cylinders need to be honed for which ever one you use.

I am in the process of "building up" a 1950 Merc flathead for the hot rod I am building. I would like to know your recommendation for the cam and heads to use.
I was thinking of using a 3/4 race cam with Navarro heads and a Navarro three carb manifold. I am concerned ( probably because I know so little about them), the proper duration and life times for the best low end performance (0 to 70mph), and smooth idle. Your thoughts?

We recommend an Isky Max 1 cam. It has good power and a good idle. We recommend the Lincoln V12 valve springs, VS487.

I am just dismantling a 1941 Packard Super-8 (356 CI) and have found a mystery regarding the pistons. I'm hoping you can help me decide what to do. The top piston ring groove width is not factory spec. It measures an odd number: .124 +.000 -.001 wide rather than the .095 spec. A .093 wide ring was installed in the groove along with a .025 spacer leaving .006 clearance, much too much. The other two piston grooves are to spec and show about .001 wear. Rings show negligible wear.
The engine appears to have had a ring job some time ago, but there is so little wear evident elsewhere (bore is 3.500 with .002 taper; pistons measure 3.4990 to 3.4995; rod journals less that .0003 wear; original bearings, etc.) I wouldn't think that pistons would have needed replacement when the ring job was done. But I can't tell. The pistons have no manufacturer's marks on them.
The reason I dismantled the engine is that it is using about a quart of oil in 500 miles or so and has more blow-by than it should. I've eliminated valve guides and vacuum pump diaphragm as oil consumption problems.
My question is this...do you recommend that I replace the pistons to get the proper ring groove or, as the pistons are in such good shape, can I just re-ring using a spacer in the top groove but still control the oil usage and blow-by effectively? And what type of rings do you recommend? Do you sell the Packard-recommended K-200 and K-90 compression rings or is there something better now?
Thanks much for the help. As a side note, my '34 Super-8 is plugging along with over 50,000 miles in 25 years on your pistons and oil usage is still only about 2000 miles to the quart.

A1: You definitely do not want to re-install the pistons with the worn out ring groove. This is the reason you are having blow by and oil consumption. Using a ring narrower than the groove with a spacer is not the way to re-ring an engine. This ring groove is worn out and the pistons need to be replaced. How did you measure your cylinder size? With the ring groove this worn out it seems like you would have a lot more taper than what you are showing.

Thanks very much for your response and especially for the gentle hint about measuring the bores more carefully. I did so and found that they are tapered between .007 and .010, so it seems best to bore-out. Do you agree?

A2: We can supply steel strutted pistons and rings in .020, .030, .040 and .060 oversize. The .007 to .010 taper would be another cause of oil use and blow by. You should definitely re-bore to the next size, either .020 or .030.

I just purchased 10 x Toledo S592 exhaust valves to suit a 1930 ser 40 Buick engine. I noticed the piston side of the valve head has 3 small 1/8" holes drilled in to each valve about 1/8" deep why would this has been done and would this be detrimental to the valve in use.

These three holes were for an old style valve lapping tool. Some of the older valves used a slot some used the holes. You would put the tool in the holes or slot and rotate to lap the valves into the head. This will not cause any problems in your engine.

I'm looking for Mercury 239 V/8 piston 3&3/16 bore 3-ring with 5/32 oil rings would you have these?

We can only supply a four-ring piston in this bore size. We make a three ring piston in bores of .125 and bigger. Our four ring pistons have two 3/16 oil rings.

I have a 1914 Overland 79T that will need a set of oil pump gears. Do you have any oil pump gear sets? Doesn't have to be specific to an Overland, but if I can find a table of dimensions for oil pump gears, perhaps I can find a set that can be made to fit. Any ideas?

Unfortunately we do not have a table of oil pump gear dimensions. We do not list this year engine in our oil pump gear books. If you can supply dimensions and the tooth count we can see if we have any gears close. We can rebuild your oil pump if you sent it in. We would just match or machine new gears to fit.

I have a 66 Sunbeam Tiger with a 260 Ford. It needs to be bored and pistons are hard to find. It is the original bore so 20 over should be good and would be used with stock rod, crank, and heads. Stock compression is only 8.8:1 and 10.5:1 is the ideal with an aftermarket cam. Any ideas?

We can supply the stock pistons for this engine. These pistons would be 8.7:1 compression ratio. We can have a set of forged pistons manufactured with the higher compression ratio. Delivery time on the forged set is usually around 4 to 6 weeks.

I have an Olds 425ci bored 30 over engine with performer heads (77cc). Stock crank (stroke 3.975) and rods (length 7"). Can you help me find a set of pistons to bring the compression up to 11:1 or close to it?

We have a piston for this application that would be a 10.25:1 compression ratio. Our part number is L2214. We have most oversizes in stock.

On my 1935 Chevy Master Deluxe 207 engine, is the ground voltage positive or negative on the battery.

This would be 6 volt negative ground.

We may be able to help you with these pistons. We will need the bore size, compression distance (middle of pin to top of piston), and the wrist pin size from your old piston. We do not show a model O-235 engine.